Jay McInerney January 30, 2010

Jay McInerney: New Orleans cuisine is alive and snapping

Author Jay McInerney goes gumbo-hunting in the Big Easy to find its classic Creole cuisine thriving

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Author Jay McInerney in New Orleans
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Nine months after Katrina, many of New Orleans's great restaurants were shuttered. Now, most of the old temples of Creole cuisine are open – and the dining scene is more varied than ever
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — August, the flagship of chef John Besh, is often cited as the city's finest restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Seafood is a key ingredient in Creole cuisine
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Grand dames lunch at the city's grand dame – Galatoire's restaurant, open since 1905
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — A child holds up a crawfish
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Draining the crawfish pot
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — At Cochon, the newest restaurant from Louisiana native Donald Link, the menu includes fried alligator, catfish courtboullion and some spectacular drinks
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Chef John Besh serves up gumbo, the classic, though hard to define, Creole dish. It may be based on the African okra dish quingombó, or it may derive from bouillabaisse – or both
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — At Herbsaint, says the chef, Donald Link, "every day the menu starts with gumbo"
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Arnaud's restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Antoine's restaurant
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — Our daily bread, New Orleans-style
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — A flair for the dramatic
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

New Orleans: Author Jay McInerny in New Orleans — The meat locker at Herbsaint
Photograph: Chris Granger/Guardian Photograph: Chris Granger/guardian.co.uk

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