Christmas is over - thank goodness - and we're now in winter proper. Time to fall back on those dried beans, and - if you're Nigel Slater - pop out to the market for fresh rhubarb, pineapple and a sea bass.
When Observer writer Sam Taylor moved his family to south-west France this year, he worried about all the things he'd miss, but watery turkey and smelly sprouts in drizzly, cold England were not on the list