The following correction was printed in the Observer's For the record column, Sunday February 7 2010
Apologies to the good people of Cranbrook in Kent for demoting their fine town to a "tiny village" below. Cranbrook was granted a charter in 1290, designating it a market town. St Dunstan's church was not "built in 1560" but dates from the 13th century. And Tenterden was described "as the next village along", despite Henry VI making it a Cinque Port in 1449.
First impressions
For the conscientious traveller, Kent has enough must-see monuments, crumbling castles and postcard-pretty villages to send you into a state of near panic. But for those happy to chuck away the list and hole up in a hotel, you can't do better than the George. The tiny village of Cranbrook first made it on to the tourist's agenda back in the 1300s when Edward III kickstarted the local broadcloth industry. Visiting commercial men needed somewhere to stay and for the past 500 or so years they've taken their ease at the George.
The ancient building, crisscrossed with time-worn black timbers, sits on a sharp corner on the high street, opposite St Dunstan's church. Known as the "cathedral of the Weald", it was built in 1560, a decade or so before Queen Elizabeth I stopped over at the George for a quick bite and bed for the night in 1573. Today, she'd have been able to choose between the restaurant, with its vast walk-in fireplace, and the comfortable brasserie; but I think she'd have preferred to stand in the friendly bar and down a pint of Spitfire.
The rooms
Behind the bar, and guarded by the first of two full suits of armour, rises a vast staircase. Back in the days of "stair envy" it was described by a visitor as being the "noblest staircase in all Kent". Dark, heavy and as black as treacle, the wooden balls on the newel posts are as big as footballs. These stairs lead up to 12 rooms – eight in the oldest part of the hotel and four in a newer extension. Of the older rooms, it is definitely worth paying an extra £30 to bag one of the two "feature rooms". The best is "Crimson", with its colossal four-poster bed and gold-painted ceiling.
The higgledy-piggledy nature of the building means most of the rooms have beams flying out at odd angles, unexplained hatches and strange-shaped windows. They're warm, clean and characterful rather than trendy. And all the better for it.
The food
Before heading into the high-ceilinged dining room, it would be a crime not to stop at the bar first. The hotel is owned by the Shepherd Neame brewery, founded in 1698. Pull up a chair by one of the tall windows looking out on to Stone Street and order a pint of Spitfire or Bishops Finger. Even those who don't love ale will appreciate the hoppy essence of the Kent countryside.
You could spend the whole evening here and order your meal from the brasserie menu – it's a dangerously hard bar to leave.
If you do manage to escape, you'll find ample reward in the restaurant. Using ingredients sourced from the Kent and Sussex countryside and nearby coast, it has garnered a fistful of awards over the years. The starters included crab cakes, pan-roasted pheasant breast and pumpkin tart, all at about £6.50. Main courses included a heavenly fillet steak and an excellent slow-roasted pork belly, with prices ranging from £10.50 to £19.50. Seasonal veg arrived in piles and the home-made bread was gone indecently quickly. Desserts were tempting but I went for the platter of local cheeses instead. The wine list was short and reasonably priced, featuring English wines from Chapel Down grown on vines in Tenterden, the next village along.
The verdict
A warm and friendly hotel surrounded by some of Kent's most historic attractions. Perfect for a stopover on your return from the Channel ports to remind you what England does best – beer, beef and bonhomie.
The rates
The George (Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent: 01580 713 348; thegeorgehotelkent.co.uk. Doubles from £85, including breakfast.
Martin Love
