Lousios Gorge
Before I bought my house in the Peloponnese, my son Christopher and I walked extensively in the area. Late winter or early spring is the best time to go, before it gets too hot and the heat haze obscures the view – you can see forever at that time of year. It's an unspoilt region in the best sense of the word, with the kind of wild flower meadows we've lost in this country. The scenery of the Lousios Gorge is the most staggering I've encountered: monasteries hanging from the cliffs as if suspended. It's the most extraordinary sight. Dimitsana
The best base for walking is Dimitsana, which is full of little tavernas and hotels. It's very old, very beautiful, and very steep. The buildings are made of lovely soft-coloured stone with tiled roofs. It's a couple of miles from Athens, and we got lost on our first visit. We stayed at a little hotel run by two sisters – I don't suppose they're there anymore; it was a while ago – and they drew a map for us on the back of a napkin. We'd run out of money and there were no cash machines – but they told us to just send the cheque when we could. ■ Proselinos Guesthouse: 00 30 27950-31675; clickhere.gr/hotels-greece/arcadia/proselinosen.htm
Theoni Fishtavern
The Theoni Fishtavern is in the village of Vathy, and you can see it from the balcony of my house. The menu is basically what they've caught that day. It's family run: the husband catches the fish; the mother cooks it. My ideal meal would be fish – preferably sea bream – with mountain greens and potatoes, the way most Greeks tell you it has to be done. Mountain greens – horta – look like dandelions: most Peloponnese carry a plastic bag and a knife, in case they spot some. ■ Fishtavern Theoni Kolias, Paralia Vathy; 00 30 22980 92120
Epidaurus
The fourth-century BC amphitheatre at Epidaurus is the most breathtaking sight. It seats about 15,000 and the acoustics are staggering. Sitting at the back, so high up you can barely see the stage, you can hear an actor's finger-click. Dolphin Bay, Metamorfosi
Dolphin Bay is below the village of Metamorfosi, where I built my house, and I love swimming there. On a good day, the water is so still they call it "olive oil water". There are mountains to one side of the bay, islands to the other, and a reef across it: the water's very shallow in front, and deep beyond. And there are dolphins, because it's the Argo Saronic gulf. I can see it all from my bed, without raising my head from the pillow. I say it's the best view in Europe. "Blue Skies and Black Olives" by John Humphrys and Christopher Humphrys is out now (Hodder and Stoughton, £18.99)54321
