We used to eat partridge on Christmas Eve in my house, in a big hearty stew made by my mother. This is my version, and the addition of star anise and cinnamon really creates those Christmassy smells that permeate through the house. It always reminds me of my teenage years when I would head out with Dad a few days before Christmas to go shooting, so this is a hugely nostalgic recipe for me. It tastes fantastic a couple of days later too.

SERVES 4

red leg partridges 4

extra virgin olive oil 5 tbsp
garlic 3 cloves, finely sliced
large carrots 2, cut in julienne
celery 2 sticks, diced
large onion 1, finely sliced
black peppercorns 1 tsp
bay leaf 1
sherry vinegar 6 tbsp
dry white wine 4 tbsp
star anise 2
cinnamon stick 1
light chicken stock 700ml
dried apricots 8
prunes 12, stoned and halved
sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to season

Trim the wing tips and season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and fry the birds for 4 to 5 minutes or until golden all around. Take the birds out of the pan and reserve. Add the garlic to the frying pan and sauté for a minute before adding the carrots, celery and onion. Sauté the vegetables until they are soft but not brown, which will take 5 to 6 minutes.

Add the peppercorns, star anise, bay leaf and cinnamon. Then add the sherry vinegar and wine. In a medium heat reduce the liquid. Add the stock and bring to the boil, removing any scum.

Return the birds to the the pan; when it comes to the boil add the fruit. Then boil the birds on a low to medium heat for 60 minutes or until they're tender.

José Pizarro is chef patron of José and Pizarro, both Bermondsey St London SE1; josepizarro.com