Interview by Molly Tait-Hyland 

Breakfast taste test

Sausages, juice, porridge and tea worth getting out of bed for, rated by chef Peter Gordon
  
  

Peter Gordon
Peter Gordon. Photograph: Alex Lake for Observer Food Monthly Photograph: Alex Lake for Observer Food Monthly

Free Range Pork Sausages

Waitrose British Free Range Pork Sausages
400g, £3.29, waitrose.com
Pale looking. It smells a bit like sage stuffing… barnyardy and herby. Coarse texture. The flavour is good – sweetness and spice.
★★★★

Marks and Spencer Gloucester Old Spot Pork Sausages
360g, £3.79, marksandspencer.com
This sausage smells like a roast leg of pork. It needs a bit more seasoning, but it's a good, juicy, porky sausage.
★★★★

Tesco Organic British Pork Sausages
325g, £3.19, tesco.com
A combination of chunky and pastey meat. It's caramelised on the outside - lovely sweetness on the tongue.
★★★

Whole Foods Market Free Range Pork Sausages (made in house)
£8.99 per kilo, wholefoodsmarket.com
The largest of them all with very little fat. An honest, simple sausage with lots of pepper. Maybe a bit too plain.
★★★

Porridge

Leon Porridge with Blueberry & Seeds
£2.50, leonrestaurants.co.uk
The most successful porridge: it's the best cooked with a nice texture. Maybe a bit too much honey.
★★★★

Le Pain Quotidien Porridge with Stewed Fruit
£4.90, lepainquotidien.co.uk
Is this a portion? It's huge! This has a rather sweet, fruity topping - it's nice. The porridge is well cooked and has flavour. It's quite creamy and very smooth.
★★★

Carluccio Steaming Porridge with Woodland Berries and Honey
£4.95, carluccios.com
The compote tastes good, more like a dessert . It's almost too thick and the oats are firm - it needs more cooking.
★★

Pret A Manger Porridge with Compote Topping
£2.35, pret.com
There's very little aroma from the topping. It feels like the compote has been thickened. The porridge is smooth though. It's the least interesting.
★★

Breakfast tea

Tesco Finest English Breakfast
50 tea bags, £1.49, tesco.com
This has good clarity so either better or larger leaves. Caramel and coffee flavours with some bitterness. This has character - the best if you're drinking tea black.
★★★★

Lidl Knightsbridge English Breakfast
50 tea bags, 99p, lidl.co.uk
No great characteristics. There's a bit of a fermented green tea flavour there too though, which is interesting.
★★★

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference English Breakfast Tea
40 tea bags, £1.50, sainsburys.co.uk
Very little aroma. Medium strength with a rounded flavour. The most bitter - this one would be the best with milk.
★★

Fortnum & Mason Breakfast Blend Tea Bags
25 tea bags, £3.50, fortnumandmason.com
Quite a hollow-tasting tea and the palest of them all. It has no real character - it's nothing special.
★★

Orange juice

Marks and Spencer Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice (with bits)
1 litre, £2.70, marksandspencer.com
A great balance of sweetness and natural orange flavours. The most orangey of the bunch. The pulp level is the highest visually and in the mouth.
★★★★

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice with Bits
1 litre, £2.50, sainsburys.co.uk
Looks milky-ish. It tastes diluted and not particularly orangey. Not overly bitter. The level of pulp is good.
★★★

Morrisons M Signature Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice with Bits
1 litre, £2.50, morrisons.com
Looks quite pale. It tastes of the orange pith… The sweetness is fine. It's not too sour, but it's quite bitter. Nice level of pulp on the tongue.
★★

The Co-operative 100% Pure Squeezed Orange Juice with Bits
1litre, £1.79, co-operativefood.co.uk
The pulp is pleasantly noticeable. It 's not nice at all
No stars

Croissants

Morrisons All Butter Croissant
4, £1.29, morrisons.com
This croissant has a good shape, size, glaze and colour. There is a little bit of sweetness and it tastes of butter. My favourite.
★★★

Waitrose French Butter Croissants
4, £2.00, waitrose.com
A rolled-up roll shape. It has a really strong savoury flavour - like ham and cheese… It has a nice glaze. The texture is very soft and spongey with big pockets of air.
★★

Sainsbury's All Butter Croissants
4, £1.30, sainsburys.co.uk
Not croissant-like in shape, but it's the best looking. Good flavour. Unfortunately the core is firm and solid and it has a dry interior. This would benefit a lot from heating.
★★

Lidl rowan Hill Bakery Butter Croissants
4, 69p, lidl.co.uk

This is pale and small. The texture is a bit too doughy and dry. It's quite sweet and it tastes almost undercooked.
No stars

Seville orange thick-cut marmalade

Tesco Finest Seville Dark Orange Marmalade
340g, £1.29, tesco.com
Good amount of fruit with a much lighter colour. It smells quite sweet and has light, floral and delicate orange flavours. I like this one the best.
★★★

Fortnum & Mason The Monarch Full-bodied Vintage Marmalade
340g, £3.75, fortnumandmason.com
The peel is in smaller pieces, but there's more of it. A less discernible orange flavour with a burnt sugar taste.
★★

Marks and Spencer Seville Orange Thick Cut Marmalade
340g, £1.29, marksandspencer.com
Very solid. Not much obvious peel, it looks like there's a lot of pectin. An old-fashioned taste - this reminds me of my grandmother.

Waitrose Duchy Originals Organic Seville Orange Marmalade Thick Cut
340g, £1.93, waitrose.com
It's got a nice caramel aroma with some bitterness. Not a lot of visual pulp. Tart, good orange flavour. Too jelly-ish.

Peter Gordon is chef patron of the Providores and Tapa Room, London W1U 4RX.

 

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