Caroline Davies 

Skye’s the limit for island as second restaurant awarded Michelin stars

Two restaurants on Scottish islands lauded in latest food ratings guide but still no stars for Manchester in four decades
  
  

The Three Chimneys restaurant on Skye. Chef Michael Smith says: 'Maybe we have got more Michelin sta
The Three Chimneys on Skye. Chef Michael Smith says: ‘Maybe we have got more Michelin stars than anywhere else per capita.’ Photo: Tim Graham/Getty Photograph: Tim Graham/Getty

Two Scottish island restaurants have emerged as culinary winners with the publication of the latest Michelin Guide.

The Three Chimneys, housed within a crofter’s stone cottage on Skye, and the Isle of Eriska on the tiny island of the same name in Argyll are among the restaurants awarded 14 new stars in the prestigious guide, which is widely considered to be the pinnacle of restaurant ratings.

The new stars also include Ynyshir Hall in Machynlleth, Wales, an imposing white manor house that once belonged to Queen Victoria, and the Crown at Whitebrook in the Monmouthshire Wye Valley, as well as Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in the Cornish fishing village of Port Isaac, whose whitewashed cottages provide the backdrop to the TV series Doc Martin.

Three gastropubs and six London venues have also been awarded one star, which denotes a very good restaurant in its category.

The addition of the Three Chimneys at Colbost, on the shore of Loch Dunvegan on Skye, means the Inner Hebridean island now has two Michelin-starred restaurants, with Kinloch Lodge the first to receive one. That is two more than Manchester, which has failed to attract a star in four decades.

Michael Smith, executive chef of Three Chimneys, who is celebrating 10 years at the restaurant, said: “It is incredible to have two restaurants on the island. Maybe we have got more Michelin stars than anywhere else per capita.” He said the news had come “absolutely out of the blue” and he was “still a bit shell-shocked”.

Describing the restaurant’s location, he said: “We may not be the most remote, but we may be one of the hardest to get to. We are right in the very north-west tip of Skye – with just the Outer Hebrides and the Atlantic beyond. When people say we are on the edge of nowhere, we always say ‘No, we are at the beginning of everywhere.’”

The Treby Arms, in Sparkwell, Devon, owned by the 2012 MasterChef winner Anton Piotrowski, the Star Inn at Harome, near Helmsley, North Yorkshire, and the Cross at Kenilworth also each earned one star. Adam Bennett, head chef at the Cross, which opened just 12 months ago, said the recognition was “absolutely incredible”.

The guide said the diversity was even more pronounced in London, referring to two restaurants with counters that were awarded stars – the tapas bar Barrafina in Soho, and Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs in Fitzrovia, which serves a no-choice set menu.

Other London winners are the Indian restaurant Gymkhana in Mayfair, the chef Jason Atherton’s City Social in the City, chef Isaac McHale’s restaurant the Clove Club in Shoreditch and Fera at Claridge’s, a recent opening by Simon Rogan.

Rogan’s L’Enclume in Cartmel, Cumbria, which was his original fine-dining venue, retains its two-star rating. His Manchester venue, the French, at Manchester’s Midland Hotel, did not attract a star, however, meaning the city has had no stars since 1974, despite his best efforts and those of Aiden Byrne at Manchester House.

Nobu and Nobu Berkeley Street in London were among nine restaurants to lose a Michelin star in the 2015 guide.

The guide’s editor, Rebecca Burr, said: “The 14 new stars in our 2015 guide highlight the enormous richness and variety of the UK’s restaurant scene. They range from country pubs to hipster hangouts, from counter restaurants to classic dining rooms.

“The public’s knowledge and interest in food gets greater every year and it won’t just be fans of cookery shows who will be planning trips to Devon to the Treby Arms.

“The Clove Club shows that there is no shortage of talented young chefs coming through. Barrafina has just got better and better over the years and even when a second branch was being planned and subsequently opened, we still experienced the same high standard of cooking.”

This year’s selection also sees 26 new Bib Gourmands, nine of which are in London, which recognise restaurants offering good food at affordable prices, the limit being £28 for three courses.

They include Iberico World Tapas in Derby, 64 Degrees in Brighton, and Palomar in Soho, as well as the Gannet restaurant-bar and Ox & Finch, both in Glasgow.

Burr said: “The Bib Gourmand awards also reflect the continuing trend for competitively priced, less structured and more flexible dining.”

 

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