Making a fire and cooking something good to eat on it feels like one of the most natural ways to cook. You don’t have to be out in the wilds either, a campfire at the bottom of the garden or a barbecue in the backyard can bring the same magical, slightly smoky, sense of satisfaction.

Don’t limit yourself to meat. Fresh fish and shellfish have a wonderful affinity with burning wood and smoke; everything that’s good about them gets better. Sustainable fish such as mackerel and sardines are also made for the fire. Their oily flesh means they’re fairly forgiving, so you won’t have to worry about them drying out. What’s more, their punchy, spirited flavour means these fish can hold their own amid the heavy weight of whirling smoke and searing char of the embers. It’s possible to create completely new tastes and textures with vegetables, delicate sweet notes, crunchy, crisp, silky, soft qualities, complex depths of savoury.

These recipes will, I hope, illustrate that with outdoor cooking you’re only really limited by your own creativity, the size of the fire you make and, to some extent, the weather.

Whole fish barbecued with chilli, fennel and coriander seed, black pepper and bay

This is a great way to cook a fish big enough to feed the family. A large line-caught sea bass would work beautifully, or a black bream for that matter. You could actually do this with a large plaice or turbot. Whatever fish you decide to use, it’s worth taking your time. Let the fish cook gently.

Serve 4
fish 1 large, 1.5kg-2kg (see suggestions above) scaled and gutted
coriander seeds 1 tbsp
fennel seeds 1 tbsp
black peppercorns 2 tsp
chilli flakes 2 tsp
flaky salt 3 tsp
olive oil 2 tbsp
bay leaves 6
garlic 1 clove, thinly sliced

Light your barbecue, and when it’s hot and you have nice glowing embers you’re ready to go.

Put the fish on a large board and, using a sharp knife, cut some slash marks down to the bone on both sides, 3 or 4 on each side will be ample.

These cuts will help the flavours from the spices penetrate into the fish, and they will also allow the heat from the barbecue to reach the centre of the fish more quickly.

Set a small pan over the heat and when it’s hot add the coriander, fennel and peppercorns. Toast them until everything begins to pop and dance around in the pan. Tip them into a pestle and mortar and crush them up. Give them a smell at this point – the aroma is quite something – then stir in the chilli flakes and salt. Trickle the olive oil over the fish and rub it in. Sprinkle over the aromatic fennel and coriander seed mixture, making sure it gets into the slash marks and up in to the cavity of the fish too. Pop the bay leaves into the cavity of the fish and slip the slivers of garlic down into the slashes.

It’s important to get the heat right under the fish, so it cooks through to the middle without burning on the outside. The bigger the fish the gentler the heat needs to be. Of course, you can always take the fish off and allow the embers to die back a little if it seems too fierce. It’s also really crucial to make sure your grill is clean, hot and oiled before you set the fish down onto it. This will help to stop the fish sticking and improve your chances of that perfect crispy skin.

Cook the fish for 12-15 minutes on the first side, then use a large spatula (or two) to help turn it over. Don’t worry if the skin or flesh breaks or tears a bit, it’s still going to taste incredible.

Cook the second side of the fish for the same amount of time. You can tell when it’s cooked by inserting the tip of a knife down through the fish to the bone. If the flakes of fish lift away from the bone with ease, then it’s done.

Very carefully lift the fish off the grill and onto a large serving platter, and bring to the table. I like to serve a green salad alongside the fish as well as some good bread, aioli and lots of lemon wedges.

Spiced lamb kofta with radish, spring onion, goat’s cheese and dill raita

I’ve been making variations on these kebabs since my early days at River Cottage. The secret is to use something with a little fat, so meat from the shoulder or even the breast works particularly well.

Makes about 6
cumin seeds 2 tsp
black peppercorns 2 tsp
fennel seeds 2 tsp
nigella seeds 2 tsp
minced lamb 500g
ground fenugreek 1 good pinch
garlic 4 cloves, finely grated
medium hot red chilli 1, finely chopped
coriander leaves a handful, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the raita
radishes 1 bunch
spring onions 4
natural yogurt 200ml
soft goat’s cheese 150g, crumbled
lemon zest of ½
mint ½ bunch, leaves picked and chopped
dill 1 bunch, chopped
olive oil 2 tbsp
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Get your barbecue going a good half an hour before you intend to cook the kebabs. This will give the charcoal time to burn back and get nice and hot.

Set a small pan over a medium heat. Add the cumin, peppercorns, and fennel and nigella seeds and toast gently for 3-4 minutes. Tip the contents of the pan into a pestle and mortar and grind to a fairly fine texture. Place the minced lamb into a large bowl. Add the toasted ground spices along with the fenugreek, grated garlic, chilli, chopped coriander and plenty of salt and pepper. Using clean hands mix for a few minutes to help it bind – this will give the kebabs a better texture.

Divide the lamb into 6 equal portions then shape each into long sausages. Thread the kebabs on to skewers and chill.

To make the raita, remove the tops from the radishes. Rinse then grate them coarsely into a bowl. Trim the spring onions and slice them really thinly. Add these to the radish along with the yogurt, goat’s cheese, lemon zest, the mint, half the dill, the olive oil and some salt and pepper, and give it a really good stir.

Lay the kebabs on the hot grill and cook for 10-12 minutes, turning occasionally. Scatter the kebabs with the remaining dill and serve with the raita and salads, breads and some cold beer.

Ember-baked onions and skirt steak with blue cheese and rocket

Cooking food directly in the embers has become quite fashionable – it’s called “cooking dirty” and is probably one of the oldest methods we have. If you’re cooking on a gas barbecue you can just use the grill instead.

Serves 4
onions 4 medium
skirt steak 800g, trimmed and ready to cook
olive oil 4 tbsp
salt and freshly ground black pepper
thyme 1 small bunch
red-wine vinegar 1 tbsp
dijon mustard 1 heaped tsp
rocket a couple of good handfuls, or a mixture of any peppery salad leaves
blue cheese 150g of your favourite

If you’re cooking the onions above the embers, on the grill, ensure there’s plenty of heat. If you plan to cook your onions directly in the embers you’ll need to make sure your fire has plenty of chunky lumps of glowing charcoal across its bed. I tend to clear a little space for each onion to sit in, so it’s surrounded by the intense heat of the charcoal but not sat directly on it. Turn the onions every so often so they cook relatively evenly. You might need to add a few lumps of charcoal every so often to keep the heat up. Tennis-ball-sized onions will take about 35-40 minutes to cook through, but if you can give them longer, then so much the better – the flesh inside will only get softer and sweeter. You can tell they’re cooked when you give them a little squeeze and they feel nice and soft, or you see their insides pushing out through the skin. Keep the cooked onions warm while you cook the steak.

If you’re brave enough to cook the steak directly in the embers too, then you’ll need to make sure your coals are still lovely and hot. Rub the steak all over with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, then season it all over with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and sprinkle over half the thyme leaves. Blow or fan away the excess ash from the embers. Lay the steak on top of the embers and cook for 2-2½ minutes on each side. (Alternatively cook the steak on the bars of the grill but give it at least 5 minutes on each side.)

To judge doneness, press the steak with your finger and see how much give it has. If it feels fairly soft, it’s still quite rare. Medium-rare is better for skirt steak.

Transfer the steak from the embers to a serving dish using tongs. If there are any rogue embers clinging to the steak’s surface, remove these and scrape away any excess ash. Rest the steak by the fire while you finish the onions. Slice each onion in half from root to tip. I find a sharp serrated bread knife works best for this procedure. I like to leave the skins on, but you can peel them away if you prefer. Arrange the onion halves over 4 large plates. Trickle their cut sides with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, sprinkle over the remaining thyme and season them all liberally with flaky salt and black pepper. Combine the vinegar, remaining tablespoon of olive oil, mustard and some seasoning. Toss the rocket through this dressing and arrange this next to the onions. Cut the steak into 1-2cm thick slices and lay them down next to the onions. Dot over the blue cheese and serve at once.

Barbecued new-season carrots with cumin, chilli, orange zest and rosemary, and flatbreads with white bean hummus

Cooking over fire is all about managing heat. Carrots take longer to cook than some other vegetables, such as asparagus, so you need to control the heat by adding more fuel, or increasing or decreasing the distance between the food and the fire. 

Serves 4
carrots 2 bunches of small to medium sized, about 16
cumin seeds 2 tsp, crushed
caraway seeds 1 tsp, crushed
coriander seeds 1 tsp, crushed
dried chilli flakes a good pinch
rosemary 2–3 sprigs
orange zest and juice of 1
garlic 1 clove, peeled and grated
smoked paprika ½ tsp
honey 1 tbsp
fresh coriander 1 small bunch
natural yogurt 2–3 tbsp

For the hummus
haricot or butter beans 1 x 400g tin, drained
lemon juice of 1
garlic 1 clove, finely crushed
ground cumin 1 tsp, toasted
tahini 2 tbsp
water 4-5 tbsp
extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp

For the flatbreads 
strong white bread flour 250g, plus extra for dusting 
salt ½ tsp
fast-action dried yeast ½ tsp
extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp

It’s a good idea to make the flatbread dough first. Put the flour into a large bowl and add the salt and yeast. Add the oil and 150ml of water and stir with a wooden spoon or mix with your hands to form a rough dough. Turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for about 5 minutes, until it feels smooth and plump. Place the dough back in a clean bowl and cover with a tea towel. Leave it to rise while you prepare the hummus topping. 

Place the white beans into the bowl of a food processor along with the lemon juice, garlic, cumin, tahini and water. Whizz everything up while adding the olive oil. You might need to scrape down the sides of the bowl and whizz again to make sure it’s smooth. Season the hummus with plenty of salt and black pepper. You can add more lemon juice, garlic or cumin if you think it needs it.

Light your barbecue and when the charcoal has burned down and you’re left with lovely hot glowing embers it’s time to cook the carrots. If the carrots have their tops on remove these (you can leave a centimetre or so in place if you like, I usually do). Give the carrots a good scrub, no need to peel them, then split each one in half from top to bottom. Pop them in a bowl with the crushed spices, chilli flakes, torn rosemary sprigs, olive oil, orange zest, garlic and plenty of salt and pepper. Tumble the carrots through all this to coat.

Arrange the carrots over the grill of your barbecue. Watch the heat; it shouldn’t be too fierce, otherwise the carrots will blacken before they soften in the middle. Turn the carrots every so often; tend to them and they’ll repay you later. When the carrots are cooked – and this may take up to 25–30 minutes – remove them from the heat to a tray or bowl. Squeeze over the orange juice, trickle over the honey, chop half the coriander and add this too. Tumble the carrots about a bit and set aside. 

To cook the flatbreads. Knock back the dough and divide it into equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball. Flour the work surface and your rolling pin, then roll out each ball into a round about 2–3mm thick. Use plenty of flour as the dough can sometimes stick. 

Lower the grill of your barbecue so it’s really close to the embers, or turn up the gas nice and high. Shake off any excess flour from one of the flatbreads and carefully lay it over the fire. Let it sit for 1–2 minutes, until the dough starts to bubble and puff in places. Look at the underside and, if you can see dark brown patches forming, flip it over and cook the other side for a further minute or so. Wrap each cooked flatbread in a cloth while you cook the remainder. 

To serve, spoon some white bean hummus onto each warm flat bread. Place the smoky carrots over the hummus and finish with a spoonful of natural yogurt, a dusting of smoked paprika, flaky salt, black pepper, a trickle of olive oil and the remaining coriander leaves.

Barbecued courgette and bread salad with dill and chilli flakes, soft boiled eggs, anchovy, garlic and parsley dressing

Courgettes cook brilliantly on the barbecue. I like to cook the really big ones whole, until they’re almost burnt on the outside, then scoop out the soft sweet flesh and make a riff on a baba ganoush. When the courgettes are smaller I love to make this salad.

Serves 4
eggs 4 free-range or organic, at room temperature
courgettes 6-8 small to medium sized, firm
sourdough 2-3 thick slices, or other good country bread, crusts removed
olive oil 2 tbsp
lemon zest of ½
dill 1 bunch
flat-leaf parsley 1 small bunch
dried chilli flakes a pinch

For the dressing
salted anchovy fillets in oil about 40-50g
garlic 2 cloves, peeled
olive oil 150ml
parsley 1 small bunch, leaves stripped
fresh basil a handful
fresh thyme 3-4 sprigs, leaves stripped
dried chilli flakes a pinch
dijon mustard 2 tsp
red-wine vinegar 1 tbsp
sugar 1 tsp
black pepper a few twists

You can start by making the dressing, then it’s done and out of the way.

Place the anchovy fillets into the jug of a blender. Roughly chop the garlic and add this along with all the other ingredients. Whizz the dressing ingredients together until you have a fairly thick, relatively smooth texture.

Pour the dressing into a small bowl or jug and set it aside.

Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the eggs. Bring back to the simmer and cook for 6½ minutes, then drain and cool in cold water to stop them cooking. Peel the eggs and set aside.

Top and tail the courgettes and slice them lengthways into strips about 3mm thick. Place the courgettes in a large bowl. Tear the bread into big bite-sized chunks and add this too. Trickle over the olive oil and scatter in the lemon zest. Season well with some sea salt and black pepper and tumble everything together.

Light your barbecue. When the flames have burned down and you have some really hot embers glowing away lay your courgettes down on the grill. Cook for 8-12 minutes on each side, or until you have an even, light charring with some caramelisation.

Pop the pieces of bread on the hot grill and cook them for a few minutes on each side or until it’s all lovely and toasty and barred with char marks. Place the barbecued courgettes and bread back into the bowl and spoon over half the dressing. Chop half the dill and half the parsley leaves and add these to the courgettes too.

Arrange the dressed vegetables, bread and herbs on a large serving platter. Halve the eggs and nestle them in the courgettes, then trickle over the remaining dressing and season everything with a little flaky salt and black pepper. Scatter over the chill flakes, the remaining parsley leaves and dill fronds before bringing to the table.

Barbecued mackerel fillets with lemon, black pepper, beetroot, horseradish, chives and warm new potatoes

Not many things epitomise early summer like the first barbecued mackerel of the season.

Serves 4
fresh chives 1 bunch, plus their flowers if available
new potatoes 500g, scrubbed
butter 25g
beetroot 12 small (about golf ball size), scrubbed and leaves trimmed
fresh mackerel 4, filleted
olive oil 2 tbsp
lemon zest of 1
thyme 3-4 sprigs, leaves stripped and roughly chopped

For the horseradish dressing
horseradish sauce 2 tbsp
natural yogurt 2 tbsp
dijon mustard 2 tsp
olive oil 2 tbsp
cider vinegar 1 tbsp
sugar 1 tsp

To make the dressing, combine all the ingredients together and mix well.

Slice the chives thinly and add half of them to the dressing, saving the remainder for later.

Halve the potatoes if they’re big and place in a pan of salted water. Set the pan over a high heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Drain in a colander and return to the pan. Add the butter and plenty of salt and pepper, stir and set aside.

Arrange the beetroot on the grill set over the hot embers of your barbecue. Cook for 30-40 minutes turning them regularly. Don’t worry if the beetroot blacken in places.

When the beetroot are cooked, (they should take the point of a knife with ease), thickly slice them (you may need to discard the ends if they’re tough), and add them to the potatoes along with half the dressing. Carefully turn the vegetables together, but just once or twice, otherwise everything will turn completely pink!

Add a bit more charcoal to your barbecue and let it burn back, leaving you with super hot embers.

Halve each mackerel fillet across its length, giving you 16 more manageable pieces. Combine the olive oil with the lemon zest, the chopped thyme and plenty of salt and black pepper. Spoon this mixture over the mackerel and rub it into the fish. Place the fish onto the clean hot bars of the barbecue skin side down, and cook without disturbing the fish until it’s almost cooked through. You can see how things are progressing because the translucent pink flesh will gradually turn opaque as the heat moves up through the fillet.

Use a spatula to carefully turn the fish over and give it a minute tops on the other side before lifting it off the heat.

To serve, turn the warm potatoes and barbecued beetroot out onto a large serving platter or divide between 4 plates. Arrange the mackerel over the top then dot over the remaining dressing. Scatter over the last of the chives (and their flowers if you have them) along with a little flaky salt and pepper.

Gill Meller’s latest cookbook is Root, Stem, Leaf, Flower (Quadrille, £27)

The Observer aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For ratings in your region, check: UK; Australia; US