It's the main event in many European countries but Christmas Eve is often neglected over here. I prefer it to the attention-hogging day after, largely because of the dinner my mother cooks at home in Dublin.

You can't get much more Irish than salmon and potatoes. It's intended as a starter – the recipe comes from Aherne's seafood bar in west Cork – but we have it as an indulgent main course, served with a green salad and French beans.

Serves 4
waxy potatoes 8 medium-sized
butter
garlic 1 clove
smoked salmon 225g sliced
salt and pepper
lemon 1 juiced
parmesan 100g grated
cream 400ml

Parboil the potatoes for about 8 minutes and let them cool before slicing into thin discs.

Butter an oven dish and rub a crushed clove of garlic into the base and sides. Layer half the sliced potatoes at the bottom, topped with a layer of salmon. Season well, pour over the lemon juice and cover with the remaining potatoes. Top with grated parmesan and pour the cream all over.

Bake for 20 minutes at 190C/ gas mark 5, or until the top is nicely browned.