Basement restaurants - some work, others don't. Mosaico, a new, below-stairs Italian which has taken over what was haut-glam Bice, gets basement dining right. Ceilings are low, but acoustics are unusually good. The crowd is trendy, fun and Euro, and the straightforward, unpretentious menu, for the most part, comes off. If tegamino di carciofi, sautéed artichokes with broad beans, ricotta and must-have bottarga lacks oomph, linguine alle vongole makes up for it. Perfect al dente pasta, nice fat vongole. An otherwise classic veal cutlet should jettison the motorway service-station quartered tomatoes. I like the all-Italian wine list, with its good coverage of the improving regions, especially Le Marche and Alto Adige.

High point: Big basement buzz. Low point: Kitchen needs to stay focused. Capacity: 70. Price per head: £50. Wine list: Col di Sasso £16. Vegetarian: 5/10. Service: 8/10. Music: No. Value for money: 7.5/10. Style: Supper-club.

Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm; Mon-Sat 6.30pm-10.30pm