Once upon a time, this was a less-than-salubrious bikers' hangout. Following a sympathetic re-fit, a cosy restaurant now fills the space where blues bands once played, making it more likely to find top value food than off-key renditions of Mustang Sally.

Fried fishcake starters, accompanied with a sweet chilli dipping sauce, are stacked with flavour. Roast salmon steaks have a fine, deep taste; the duck breast is honey-glazed and sliced into melt-in-the-mouth strips; and the roasted sea bass falls succulently off the bone. From there, the logical conclusion is with fresh profiteroles drenched in chocolate sauce and cream. Presentation stays free of stack'n'drizzle pretensions, service is warm and the prices have more than a hint of yesteryear. Starters and puds mainly stay under a fiver, while mains rarely venture over £10 which means there's a two-person feast to be had for less than £40.